Luxury watches are common in high-end jewelry stores and are pricey timepieces that make you stand out. A luxury watch is an essential addition to your outfit, and owning one is a major investment. There are different luxury watch brands in the market, and many come with distinctive features. Apart from the usual time-telling function, these watches have additional features, which vary depending on the brand.
If you are a watch lover, I presume you have heard of terminologies like complications, high horology, or haute horlogerie. Let’s learn more about them.
What are luxury watch complications?
Luxury watch complications are additional features or functions in a watch. They go beyond the basic timekeeping display and are a definition of watchmaking craftsmanship. These features determine the functionalities of your watch and are highly sought after by watch enthusiasts.
A watch with many complications is referred to as a grand complication. Only a few brands produce grand complication watches due to the skill and expertise required.
What are the common complications in luxury watches?
Watch features vary depending on the brand and type of watch. Pieces with more complications are more expensive, and knowing what to choose helps avoid mistakes. Some of the common watch complications include;
1. Chronograph
A chronograph is a popular and highly valued complication in most luxury watches for men. It is a stopwatch integrated into the watch, allowing you to measure elapsed time.
A typical chronograph watch has two main functions: timekeeping and the stopwatch function.
Timekeeping: With this function, your watch will display the current time, just any other regular watch.
Stopwatch function: The chronograph feature enables your watch to function as a stopwatch and can measure short periods. It features two or more extra buttons on the case, separate from the crown. One button starts and stops the timing, while the other resets the chronograph hands to zero.
2. Moon phase
Moon phase complication is a popular feature in most luxury watches. It adds a touch of sophistication to the timepiece, making it unique. The moon phase displays the current phase of the moon, and consists of a small disc with two identical moons.
Here’s how the moon phase complication works;
- Moon cycle:The lunar cycle lasts approximately 29.5 days, during which the moon goes through different phases, from new moon to the full moon.
- Positioning:The moon phase disc is linked to the watch movement and positioned behind an aperture on the dial. The disc rotates slowly, typically completing one full revolution every 29.5 days.
- Setting: When setting the watch, you should align the moon phase indicator with the right position of the moon in the sky.
3. Perpetual calendar
A perpetual calendar automatically adjusts the date, day, and month. It takes into account the days in a month and leap years, and can accurately track the date for many years without requiring manual adjustment.
The benefits of a perpetual calendar in your luxury watch include;
- Accurate date tracking:Perpetual calendars automatically account for the varying lengths of months. Your watch will accurately display the correct date, even during leap years, without manual adjustments.
- Low maintenance:A perpetual calendar can run accurately for decades without additional adjustment. This feature draws watch collectors who own multiple timepieces and don’t want to reset them continually.
- Timeless design:The complexity of a perpetual calendar mechanism enhances the watch’swatch’s aesthetic appeal. The intricate dials and sub-dials, combined with the technical mastery required to build such a complication, contribute to the watch’swatch’s overall appeal.
- Prestige-Watches with perpetual calendars are considered highly prestigious. Owning a timepiece with this complication signifies an appreciation for horological craftsmanship.
4. Tourbillon
The tourbillon is an attractive complication that counteracts the effects of gravity on the watch’swatch’s movement. It comprises a rotating cage and a balance wheel, which constantly rotates, improving timekeeping accuracy.
By continuously rotating the balance wheel and escapement, the tourbillon averages out positional errors caused by gravity, leading to potentially higher accuracy.
Moreover, the construction and assembly of these intricate mechanisms require incredible skill and precision. Owning a tourbillon watch is a testament to the craftsmanship and expertise of the watchmaker. Such watches hold significant value and are a status symbol among luxury watch enthusiasts.
5. Minute repeater
The minute repeater is an auditory complication that chimes the time when activated. It uses different tones and sounds to indicate the hours, quarter hours, and minutes. However, it’s a complex mechanism requiring multiple skills to manufacture.
Minute repeaters showcase the artistry of the watchmaker. They embody the rich horological heritage, and owning a Minute Repeater watch offers an unparalleled experience. The chiming of the hammers and gongs produces melodic and harmonious sounds. And this creates a connection with the watch that goes beyond visual appreciation.
6. GMT/World Time
A GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) complication allows you to track multiple time zones simultaneously. Some models have a 24-hour hand or an additional sub-dial displaying a second-time zone.
This complication is useful for travelers wishing to track their home time zone and the local time in their location. If you work with teams in different parts of the globe, GMT watch helps simplify scheduling and coordination by providing a quick and easy way to check the time. Also, the feature helps adjust to new time zones, avoiding jet lag.
7. Power Reserve Indicator
The Power Reserve Indicator displays the remaining energy in the watch’swatch’s battery. It offers several benefits to users and will also enhance the watch’swatch’s aesthetics. This complication informs you about the remaining power in the watch; this is handy for automatic watches that rely on wrist movement to wind the mainspring.
Mechanical watches also exhibit timekeeping variations as the mainspring’s energy diminishes. When the power reserve is low, it can affect the watch’s accuracy. But, keeping an eye on the power reserve indicator helps avoid timing discrepancies and maintain precise timekeeping.
Moreover, luxury watches act as statement pieces and not just for practical timekeeping. With a Power Reserve Indicator, you can be confident that your watch has enough power to last through the day.
The bottom line
Buying a luxury watch with complications should align with your style, preferences, and budget. For watch enthusiasts and collectors, the allure of complications often goes beyond the practical aspects, tapping into a passion for horology and appreciation for fine timepieces.